Thoughts on Indochina

Now that I have completed my Indochina part of my sabbatical. I think it’s time to do some look backs.

Thailand

It is beginner friendly, quite easy to travel to and from all over the world. Developed tourism infra and infra in general. Thais are probably the nicest overall and are quite used to tourists. Most goods have price tags even at night and fresh markets.

Because it’s trying to be easy, you lose discoverability. Take a typical night market as an example, the most obvious food you can find is going to be Pad Thai and Mango sticky rice. Every single night market across all cities is the same. If you watch any food bloggers about Thailand, you know Thai food complex. Such complexity hence the experience, unfortunately, is hidden from most tourists.

Further, it tends to attract the least travelled, party oriented, perhaps not ones who are well travelled you’d associate with. While Thais always smile and well behaved, that can’t be said about tourists.

Lastly, I want to say is Thai government has done an amazing job in picturing it as the perfect holiday destination as well as long term one (yes it’s the only country that’s visa free and it’s generous 45-days for most visitors). It is true that Thailand has many things – big cities, nice beaches and mountains. However, none of them are special. Don’t get me wrong, they are not bad, just lack of wow factor especially given the over tourism has made cost of travel skyrocketed and somewhat hard to manage unless you plan ahead.

• 5/5 for easy travel
• 3/5 for return of investment – food is still reasonably cheap
• 2/5 for uniqueness

Vietnam

This is hands down my favorite country. It is culturally diverse from the American influenced south, to the imperial central region, and the mountainous north. They all offer unique experience both for their sceneries as well as food. The energy among food and its coffee culture is unmatched. You just know each and everyday will be something profound. Food is cheap and often represents amazing value (competition is high and also Vietnam is an agricultural country)

For me the most memorable part perhaps was the little history lesson and tours around the Vietnam War. I appreciate the galleries are facts based with no agenda attached and you just see yourself for the atrocity.

Obviously, it’s not the easiest country to travel to. Visa needs advanced planning. The Vietnamese aren’t that used to tourists nor they favor westerners (perhaps the they’ve seen enough over the war), that is, many things aren’t translated. Despite its massive opportunity for self-discovery, it’s nevertheless challenging. I have no bad feeling towards the Vietnamese, they are also not the kind you’d come back to just because of the people. They work extremely hard, much resemble the typical East Asian culture. If there’s one more dollar can be earned, they would do it without a second thought.

• 3/5 for easy travel – many options traveling inside the country. The sleeper buses are the best in the region.
• 5/5 for return of investment – affordable food and accommodation are everywhere without having to trying too hard
• 5/5 for uniqueness

Cambodia

Angkor Wat is stunning, Phnom Phen has lots of potential – modern, beautiful and perhaps underrated (itself could easily be a digital nomad destination). The tragic past put humanity to test. I was also lucky enough to meet with both locals and expats, they seem to be motivated thus give hope to this little poorest country that suffered so much.

Other than than tiny annoyance in having to pay $1 for extra for the visa on arrival, and got my US bank issued USDs rejected. I must say there’s quite a few other inconveniences. The most run down certain tourist attractions and yet still charge extorting amount of entrance fees ($10 minimal, this is high even for US standard) being one of them. Lack of signages even at Angkor Wat. Money hungry people everywhere, particularly I really hate using young children to gain empathy.

I also feel like its government isn’t doing a whole lot in at least encouraging education, building sustainable industries. But rather, it filled with corruptions – allowing the foreign firms building ugly cities that filled with money laundry casinos etc. I understand it suffered a lot and the world should be more sympathetic. I also got the feeling the government wanted to rely on foreign aid and purposely trying to position itself for it as well. Such that being an agricultural country and it is the only industry and yet still replies on imports from neighboring countries like Thailand and Vietnam.

• 2/5 for easy travel – Lack of airports and tourism infra in general
• 1/5 for return of investment – It feels like its core strategy is to extract as much money from the tourists as possible as a one time business transaction. I don’t blame them however.
• 2/5 for uniqueness – Other than Angkor Wat and a bit history buff there’s not much really to see. Food is repetitive as well

Lao PDR

Ecotourism – aka, trekking & hiking are much more developed than its neighbors. Long distance boat travel on the Mekong is a highlight on its own. Heritage city is beautiful. Caves and lagoons can keep you busy for a while. Time slows down there as you can easily just grab a Lao coffee (which is underrated) and watch the world slips by. The Chinese high speed train, the only kind in Indochina, does help visiting more places without having to rely on long uncomfortable buses. Attractions all offer good values with often great maintenance – (the trail condition is the best I’ve seen even comparing to NA)

Really hard to find any obvious flaws. Perhaps having many places to visit in which are far apart can limit some visitors. Food lacks of its own identity. Restaurants try to please the western pallets a bit too much such that even for local food is somewhat altered. Bus and train stations are away from the city center in which often expensive tuk tuk transfers are required. Not enough intra country flights are offered thus forces tourists to rely on outdated long distance buses. Train booking is also convoluted.

• 3/5 for easy travel
• 4/5 for return of investment
• 4/5 for uniqueness

Final thought

Despite I would recommend visiting Cambodia and Laos, they are also unlikely for me to visit again near term.

Thailand probably offers the most mature digital nomad set up in which I would consider staying long term.

Vietnam still has lots of be visited and I would not mind doing another trip.