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Sabbatical Week 22 – Buyu Goes Places

Sabbatical Week 22

Day 1

We got up just at around sunrise to ensure we could reach to our destination around midday – highest chance to avoid any potential bad weather

View directly from my room. Though I had decent sleep, I still managed to wake up before sunrise
First selfie of the day, we were in a relatively good spirit
Passing by a local stupa before the uphill climb
Mix of the pine trees and snow capped mountains
Some pinnacles in sight
Sunrise?
Annapurna
passing some local porters
Finally seeing some yaks!
A local having a musical moment
Almost to town now

We were about to teach Manang, a village that’s situated at around 3,500m and where we’d stay for 2 nights to acclimatize to the elevation before we could ascend further.

village gate!
our accommodation again had amazing views of the Annapurna mountains

I got a bit sick at this point, partially due to the high elevations (my trekking partner was sick too)

much needed lemon honey tea!

The storm clouds started forming again

I lied down after heavy Dal Bhat (950) for lunch a bit before heading back to the dining hall where the fire had lit up

I ordered a mushroom cheese veggie burger (700NRP) which turned out was much better than expected

Day 2

Weather was depressing and the sun was nowhere to be found

It’s a resting day, we didn’t have to get up too early nor worry too much about the weather.

porridge with apples for breakfast (400NRP)

We found this French bakery next to our guesthouse

How amazing was it to have a French press in the high mountains? (250NRP for the coffee and we had a chocolate roll as well 300NRP)

The only agenda for the day was to climb up to the viewpoint in town to help with acclimatization

Selfie of the day
Glaciers in sight.

In just under 45min, we arrived at the high point.

Met a British guy (Welsh, so that your typical Brits) who’s living in China at the moment

It’s a bit early before lunch, I went to the local trekking center get some information and some shops to get some last minutes gears (a headlamp for 1,000NRP and hiking spikes for 1,500NRP)

For lunch, we decided to eat somewhere else other than our accommodation to save some money and also to have some variety

I ordered a yak garlic steak (900NRP). The freshly cut fries were quite good. The potatoes are from their gardens
My mate’s yak burger
my yak steak. I quite like it.

The internet came back, I managed to catch up with the world and work a bit. Soon was time for dinner (I had veggie burger again).

The lodge became much busier since the weather seemed to be cleared forward. Met quite a few trekkers all around the world.

Day 3

Sunrise!
Horse carriage!

This day we were really starting to climb high (above 4000m).

As usual, a beautiful early morning
selfie of the day
Locals building bridges to connect two trails in a high village
Finally, no more lazy jeep trekking!
Donkeys replacing jeeps!

We started seeing some stunning high mountain views now

In just shy of 2 hours, we reached of tea break (150NRP).

We were really happy at this moment
Probably some of the favorite sceneries this trip
Yaks trekking with us!

Just an hour before noon, we arrived at our accommodation for the day.

Since we were the first guest, we managed to peek into every single room to find the one that has the best view

A horse that’s for the needy trekker

Lunch I had the simple veggie Dal Bhat

Turned out there’s dried buffalo meat option but it’s not offered for trekkers due to possible stomach upset. My guide was kind enough to share his.

The Internet was down again, our guide took us to a simple tea house where the locals who built the bridge earlier of the day hung out

We ordered some snacks (150NRP)
I finally got to order some needed protein (350NRP) – dried buffalo. Amazingly good!

Soon, it’s sunset time

Once the sun was gone, the temperature dropped rather quickly. We all just hugged the fireplace.

I had my fried rice with eggs to for maximum carbohydrates – 500NRP

Above 4,000m really started getting to me. I couldn’t really fall asleep the first half of the night, though managed to catch up with some sleep the latter half. The respiratory impact due to the attitude made it extra challenging as well.

Day 4

Early start again. At this point, we were quite used to the early start cadence.

Morning sunrise.
Another fried rice to store much easy energy as possible

The first part was gradual ascend to at around 4,500m

We definitely had most of our winter gears now
The first 1/3 of the hike was in behind the sun, so it’s quite freezing. Though the solidly frozen road made it a bit easier to walk on than later muddy frosty path
almost reached to the sunlight!

Tea break (100NRP) & lazy pup

We trekked through the famous landslide area. Earlier the bridge workers were to build a bridge to connect the trekkers to the other snowy but more stable side.

I have to mention my guide here. His eyes were constantly scanning for danger for the falling rocks. As soon as he spotted some, he quickly grabbed me to the side and hugged me to shield me away from the rocks. The rocks actually fell right behind and in front of me. I could have easily hit be the rocks due to the slow reaction speed at this elevation. Kudos to my guide!

In just over 2 hours we reached the low camp. This is where most trekkers stay at (4,500m) comparing the high camp (5,000m). There’s trade offs. Sleeping at high camp ensure shorter trek to the pass, whereas low camp might end up having better sleep.

midway to the highcamp

It’s almost 500m straight up 45degree climb. This 1km took me nearly 90min. We actually met with a German couple where we stayed at the previous accommodation. They got extreme attitude sickness (massive headache) and decided to go back down.

Arriving at the high camp

I immediately ordered some sea buckthorn juice to help with the attitude. Lots of trekkers started getting headaches, I was surprisingly fine other than my breathing.

300NRP

After lunch with a brief rest, we decided to climb the viewpoint at the high camp a bit. This was to taste what’s like to be above 4,900m

So, yes. I was ready for the next day ultimate challenge
More fried rice for that carbs!

I went to bed right around 7pm, didn’t really sleep until perhaps at 1am. I had a shuteye for maybe 2 hours. Breathing was just difficult, and I was getting semi-panic attack in which my body was constantly trying to burn away fats to supply for my energy needs. I felt quite warm as a matter of fact.

Day 5

Got up at 3am to be ready for breakfast at 4am.

Trek soon started. We were in relatively great mood to experience the ultimate challenge of this entire circuit trek tour.

In about 45min, sun started to rise which gave us perspectives that we were going through a pass.

At a tea break. We didn’t want any hot drinks at this point and just wanted to reach the pass
2/3 way to the pass already
slowly slowly
last push!

We reached the tea house at the pass, we got us a much needed hot tea (250NRP). Everyone’s in a celebratory mode, the exhilaration and excitement can be known among us trekkers who have completed this part.

5400m!
This moment belonged to us only

The pass was very windy and cold (-15C), in just short minutes, we started descending

Descending 1,600m in a few short hours is probably harder than getting to the pass from High camp. Nevertheless, with the motivation of the freezing temperature we did rather quickly. It’s the first day I actually felt soreness in every part of my legs. It’s also just challenging on my knees as well.

in just an hour or so, we were down to almost below the permafrost line
Emergency shelters
A peak of the pass we just crossed an hour before

Entering the clouds now

Almost getting below the clouds
Now the local village was insight

It’s only at around 10am where we reached the first settlement after the pass.

solar water boiler

I took a quick juice break to gain some energy before continuing. Needless to say the temperature rose very quickly. From 3 layers and a down jacket to a T-shirt with a thin jumper

From the settlement to our destination was just a short 45min stroll with mostly flat trekking road.

Last footbridge of the day

Arriving in town

It’s a huge village with almost all the civilized amenities
A big hawk flying over mountains

Turns out the town is also very popular among the Indian pilgrimage

Lots of non trekking tourists

After putting down our bags, we went out to celebrate with other trekkers

Pasta and 2 beers – 2,100NRP.

Spent sometime on the much needed Internet before heading for dinner. Though I got a mild headache likely from the beers. This is why guides don’t want us to drink any alcohol after reaching 3,000m

Yak Dal Baht! Really good for 900NRP.

Day 6

Sunrise from our room

The town is peaceful at early morning hours

We decided follow most trekkers plan to skip down hill trek for the day and take the bus (500NRP extra) instead. This also allowed us saving a day and getting back to the city one day earlier

Local buckwheat bread for breakfast.

The bus was at 11am, we got some time to walk around the view point and local temples

selfie of the day of course
I definitely didn’t lose much weight as much as I wanted
Hindu wash basins
Queue to the temple.
Our guide went to touch the bells a bit
Some lazy tourist wanted to be carried up
Quite busy

Found a bakery where I could finally get some good needed coffee and Apple pie to conclude the high mountains segment

300NRP
350NRP

We headed to the bus terminal for our bus to bring us down to 1,100m

We’d soon all be missing this

Bus left 10min after scheduled departure time. Road was windy, fortunately I still had some motion sickness pills left from Vietnam.

View from the bus passing through a local village

Very quickly we arrived at a bus stop for a toilet break and also where more passengers got on.

Maybe American schools should teach kids this

I took some random pictures

including this American flavored chips?
Passed by the town where we were supposed to trek to and stay. I don’t know how authentic this mega melting pot restaurant is
We dropped way below the snow line now

The bus ride was supposed to be a bit over 4 hours, but sadly we hit a major landslide that slowed us down by 2 hours.

The view as nice while we were waiting for the rocks to be cleared
Passing by the landslide area

We arrived right around dinner time. I decided to treat myself with a what I thought mountain beef steak (turned out it’s imported from India – 1050NRP. oh well)

We went to the hot spring after dinner. It was very nice and much needed for the muscle pain before we could trek more.

Day 7

It’s the day we were headed towards Poon Hill, our last trekking stop.

Mixed fruit porridge 350NRP

Prices started to come down as it’s no longer in the high mountainous areas

After breakfast, we started trekking again. The muscle soreness could still be felt strongly. Though, good thing is most of the trekking was uphill which is definitely better than coming straight down.

A puppy and a chick?
Seems like lower villages in this part still utilize horses for carriage
Definitely the summer trek now

Going through some villages

Traditional house

This part I actually quite like, it’s not very touristy or at least the villages aren’t built just for trekking purpose. One can actually experience what trekking might have been in the older days.

Though interesting to trek through this part, nothing spectacular however.

After about 2hours, we trekking mate got really hungry and needed to eat. I decided to order a pot of tea (120NRP) instead

Arriving at our accommodation.

Surprisingly, the part of the trek was difficult (perhaps, just mentally after trekking through the pass that I was no longer ready to spend more effort?)

700NRP, it’s excellent. I had quite a few refills
Sun is magical

You could see from the background that the weather took a sharp turn for the worse

Rain storm started again… oh well, so much for the dry season

Right around sunset time, it started to clear a bit.

For dinner, I got some chicken momos.

Substantial amount of food, though I didn’t like minced chicken that much – 400NRP
Desert! Apple pie (350NRP)

I also got a local coffee mixed with rice liquor (300NRP). Tasted like Baileys.

After checking for the forecast, we decided that it’s unwise to continue the trek given the effort it’s needed and almost impossible to witness the spectacular sunrise from Poon Hill (later on we met trekkers who did the hike and all confirmed there wasn’t much to be seen but just wetness all the way. I think having experienced one wet day on the trek was a good enough lesson for me that I don’t need another one)

There are many thoughts I have towards Annapurna and Nepal in general, I will post them separately.

Expenses

Note that tour cost / tips / equipments are all amortized and included under Other column.

Week 22Currency:NRP130
DayFood&DrinkLodgingTransportationOther (tickets/tours etc)
1$17.38$2.31$0.00$40.26
2$21.69$2.31$0.00$47.95
3$19.62$1.92$0.00$51.79
4$18.54$3.85$0.00$40.26
5$30.77$7.69$0.00$40.26
6$22.85$3.85$3.85$40.26
7$17.50$3.85$0.00$40.26
$148.35$25.77$3.85$301.02
TotalGrand Total:$478.98

1 comment

  1. Great job! It sounds like you were prepared as physically as you could be along with having all of the gear you could find. It’s interesting how sometimes finding the name brand gear is more difficult out of America. I agree some of the snowy mountain sights look like some of the best of the trek. And, that’s great there were so many yaks trek with and you even have the option of eating them in a burger along with other fresh vegetables and things. Good idea to not continue the trek when the forecast shows it will be too wet, so you won’t see the sights as well and it might be too unsafe.

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