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Sabbatical wk-3 – Buyu Goes Places

Sabbatical wk-3

Day 1

Today’s travel day, not only I had to take the bus but also the ferry. Nevertheless, I was very excited to meet up with my friends – the kindest people on earth.

Dusty road

The Dutch helped me booking shared taxi to Sihanoukville for $12.5. The road condition was pretty bad though.

The drive is somewhat scenic
Airport in SHV

In about 2 hours or so, we arrived at the ferry terminal, just in time for the 12pm ferry ($21 – 2-way)

Beautiful day for the ferry ride.

Unfortunately, due to lack of sleep in the hostel as well as the bumpy ride, I was getting motional sickness.

Koh Rong

After about 45min, we arrived on the island. We were starving, so after checked into our hotel ($55/3) and started our feast.

I ordered the only protein dish, lolz

Food was 125,000 / 3 Riels

Sunset swim
Island was pretty quiet
Fruits as dinner

After dunking in the water for a bit, we were ready for our evening boat ride ($4pp) to see the plankton. – it’s amazing really to see in person, impossible to capture in camera unfortunately

I went to bed early due to the massive headache that I had.

Day 2

Sunrise

We got up at 5am to see sunrise. The island was very deserted and peaceful.

Even the local street pups are having a good time

We found a local beach resort for some egg omelets. (54,000 / 3 Riels)

After a brief break and shower, we decided to eat again (57500 / 3 Riels).. (ehhh, I don’t normally even eat breakfast, but my friend somehow got super hungry just a few short hours)

The highlight is the fish with fermented soybean and young ginger. It’s not on the menu, my friend went to the backroom and hunted from the fridge and instructed the exact cooking instruction

Then we took the ferry back to SHV and attempted via tuktuk (30000 riels / 3) to find a hotel, which was bit harder than we thought. The first hotel was in a deserted part of the town and second didn’t have towels and flies everywhere. We decided to settle on the second one nevertheless. ($20/3)

Local fresh market
Chinese market

The local businesses were largely Chinese and didn’t even have Khmer languages, which I found a bit odd. Though I wasn’t happy, but I wasn’t in the position to judge or power to change anything either.

Waterfront
Time to eat again. Don’t know how we managed to eat this much
Local fruit

We walked passed the Chinese part of the town and went to the Khmer part to eat (206, 000 / 3 riels)

Day 3

Had a good night sleep, and time to eat again…

The curry chicken is quite good
Curry chicken
The curry fish is a bit under-whiming.
Local fruits for the road
local crackers
and yes, we eat again… $10pp The bamboo chicken is okay, good flavor but not the best chicken. The fried fish was good.
Chicken feet! steamed

After lunch, it’s time to hit the road and get to Phnom Penh ($15pp)

mini bus
Nice Chinese built hwy

After got to PP, we first got to my friend’s brand new condo to check his rooftop bar

Stunning view!

At this point, I grew quite liking the city now.

Good beer!

My friend paid ($21?) for the food and beer. I became quite tired at this point, so headed to my hostel for a good night sleep. Still managed to get 2 beers though.

hostel check in

Day 4

Got up early for the tour ($30) genocide tour day. I intentionally didn’t take many photos out of respect of the dead.

My hostel view
s21
I don’t know if I was more shocked in Dachau camp or this

The audio tours were really good. I think the perhaps the take-away is can we prevent it happening again. The fact this happened decades after Holocaust and so few knew about it, the fact that the US/UK/China/Franch supported Khmer Rogue 20 years after the end of the genocide due to Vietnamese invasion, I think the answer is probably no.

Veggie lunch as part of the tour, it’s surprising good and filling

After a brief nap, I decided to walk around the city myself with a German since the city walk tour was cancelled due to lack of sign ups. I think despite the claim that tourism is completely open, I think there were still business didn’t manage to survive.

The water front is astonishing!

Local Christmas celebration
Local draft $4
Local buddhist ceremony
eat at the night market. the noodles weren’t cooked through, seafood wasn’t fresh. 15,000 Riels
Got a fruit bowl for 5,000 riels
Duck for 10,000 riels

It was interesting that someone’s at the duck stand asking me where I was from after guessing if I was from Japan, Vietnam and finally China. He then said how lucky I was and I shouldn’t share my fortune.. not sure what to make of it…

Day 5

It’s supposed to be my relaxing day. Ended up pretty tiring. My friend said he was going to work at 9am, I figured why not join him and I could get some research done as well.

Breakfast
My friend’s breakfast

The noodles really good, though a bit fancier and pricer to my like (15,000 Riels plus coffee 10,000 I think)

I had a chance to talk to a few people at the Khmer Enterprise, was genuinely impressed about their mission, motivation and commitment. I do think with those people, the great progress shall be made.

Time flu by rather fast to lunch.

roasted chicken

Back to the office for some computer time before we headed out for beers:

It’s good beer, but 3L for $39/2 was steep

My friend also ordered some clams and steak ($25/2). Not my favorite nor was I hungry at all

The steak was really rare

Food and drinks alone were definitely over-budget for the day. Once a while to enjoy higher class life? (I am not opposed to spend money on food even expensive ones, but the value was a bit subpar)

We actually wanted to do a River cuisine on the Mekong River, it seemed no operators were running, only privates.

More food at the Russian night market (no Russian food, ironically)

Desert

I was pretty happy at the night market. Deep down I still enjoy more of the common people food!

Day 6

Finally a lazy day. Got up a bit early but went back to sleep until lunch time. My Cambodia friend wanted to eat Greek food, I figured I’d tag along.

$10pp. The Moussaka is quite good.

After lunch I decided to go to the national museum ($10)

I was honestly pretty disappointed for spending $10, not only the facility seemed in poor condition (galleries in maintenance) but also the audio guide wasn’t provided. I wasn’t even given a brochure, and the complex is really tiny – not that I am into ancient artifacts that much to begin with

I was planning on at least getting some alright experience at the Royal Palace. It wasn’t even open.

In Asia, there also seems having issues maintaining tourist attractions. I really just don’t understand. In America, even a city or town level museums are in great shape. Asia only has money for high rises, which is really a shame.

I was pretty grumpy at this point, and the Grab driver chose to not to pick me up after accepting.

The brewery seemed a bit off too, though recommended by my friend, I was the only customer. Only a small taps were available too.

Do people in Southeast Asia don’t drink beer in a hot Friday afternoon? I also don’t know where were the backpackers. Maybe this is self-fulfilling to skip Phnom Penh in that community. I can definitely see why. If things aren’t in-order, how do you expect people to stay here longer?

Went back to my hostel for a brief break, and went out for dinner (17,000 Riels) with my Cambodian friends.

I missed the Family dinner at the hostel, probably the chance to network as well. I think I probably subconsciously made a decision to just not socialize. I think in part is unlikely I’d find anyone I can really connect at a party hostel. Then again, not socializing actually made me more tired. I wonder if I am actually an extravert.

My friend decided to take me around the city and check out a skybar.

Oysters are eh. a bit gamy to my taste, and $16 is steep even as Seattle standard

The view and drinks are just fabulous. I’d say it’s definitely worth the $60 (technically should be split with 3, I picked up the tab this time)

In general, I don’t really like ordering expensive food at a drinking place especially since we’ve had dinner just before. (Might be a tradition to always have food to accompany drinks. I am probably more value conscious. I don’t mind paying for the price as long as it’s worth the value.)

I think coming to Cambodia really has upp-ed my spending hobbit. From having to think twice ordering anything over $5 (consider most of the time food is around $2) to paying for double digit. Mind you, I just came from de facto more developed Saigon.

Day 7

Another lazy day. I ordered some Chinese beers and a Baijiu to lunch where my friend’s mom’s cooking. Really lovely people, definitely one of my highlights of the trip.

Khmer style Hot pot
I specifically asked for the fish that I liked in Koh Rong. Very good, though I might have waited for eat since the hotpot was equally superb

The family was really lovely, they spoke a bit English since they’ve hosted guest houses before.

First time eating on a carpet! What a delightful concept!
Lovely family photo

The uncle (ex-army general) really liked the Chinese liquor, I actually ended up ordering the second batch for him using a local delivery app called nham24 ($9.4)

Deserts. The mom used to sell those back in time! I think it’s coconut based. I was too full to appreciate

Knowing that I love Durian, the mom purposefully went to the market to pick an expensive Durian (due to not in season at this moment)

The seed is so tightly. To be honestly, I think the Durian I had in Da Lat was a bit more ripen. I trusted the seller, and it’s probably in their best interests to sell the most ripen ones first anyways.

The mom brought more fruits as desert, how lovely.

The longan was great! juicy and plumped

We looked at their family photo albums, seeing their growth (belly size) is fun!

After the meal. (I swear I grew 5 pounds since I started in Cambodia), we went to Wat Phnom in the city center.

I even lighted up some essence for fun

My friend decided to take me to a local sauna shop ($6) for relaxation. What good value it is, we even had a fresh coconut. It’s just interesting to see how food and drinks can be very expensive (I think it has lots to do with not being able to produce everything inside the country? Technically, Cambodia is an agricultural country. I am pretty puzzled actually ) while services can be found at a bargain.

Some interesting economic data in the Indochina area:

Cost of Living Comparison Between Ho Chi Minh City and Phnom Penh: Consumer Prices in Phnom Penh are 27.06% higher than in Ho Chi Minh City (without rent)

 RestaurantsHo Chi Minh CityEditPhnom PenhEditDifference
Meal, Inexpensive Restaurant54,505.52 ₫
(2.31 $)
94,420.00 ₫
(4.00 $)
     +73.23 %
Food, which matters probably the most for backpackers is whopping 73% higher

However, the GDP, according to the World Bank or https://data.worldbank.org/indicator/NY.GDP.PCAP.CD?locations=VN-KH Vietnam is more than 3 times higher than Cambodia.

Expenses

Week 3
DayFood&DrinkLodgingTransportationOther (tickets/tours etc)
1$11.46$18.33$33.50$4.00
2$26.46$6.67$7.50$0.00
3$28.50$22.46$16.33$4.00
4$15.94$22.46$1.33$41.35
5$52.50$22.46$0.00$1.00
6$51.25$28.00$3.00$10.00
7$17.73$28.00$2.33$0.00
$203.83$148.38$63.98$60.35
Grand Total:$476.54
overspending on food

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