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Sabbatical Week 18 – Buyu Goes Places

Sabbatical Week 18

Opening

Finally Bali. Bali is everything. You have all the big city amenities such as an International Airport and Western restaurants, even bars and wineries. Yet, it’s touristy – You pay Western prices and often without Western standards. It’s hustle and bustle and sometimes in an unpleasant way. Warm and welcoming Balinese and yet you find money desperate scammers from time to time. It’s full of instagram hotspots yet there are tranquility everywhere.

I was told not to visit Bali, and yet I still visited. I think I will probably tell my fellow travelers the same and you will still end up there. That’s Bali. An destination one can love and hate at the same time.

Day 1

The hostel I stayed in Kuta, Bali was walkable to the airport so it’s full of travelers on their either the first leg or last leg of their travel. I managed to score a few to visit the South Bali – Uluwatu (140k about 45min cab ride). It’s an upscale resort style place which reminds you of Hawaii with big villas and fine dining.

Finally a proper beach in my 4 month travel
Yet, we managed to find local and affordable food next to the beach club (120k with a big Beer Bintang and two entries

Later on we went for a swim

Unfortunately, I wasn’t in the picture

I met a lovely Russian lady who’s also a social media influencer who’s stayed in Bali for 8 months by then. She’s nice enough to watch out stuff while we went to the ocean. I feel bad for her due to the bad reputation Russians get in general in Bali where the government is cancelling visa on arrival for them and even considering banning motorbike rental all together.

Next was the Uluwatu Temple (50k)

The monkeys are annoying, they steal all sorts of things. Including glasses, sandals. There were lots of mad people there who got their things stolen.

Finally dinner time at a nice sunset restaurant. This was where the money well spent.

Bali beer plus a whole grilled fish while watching sun goes down. Yum. $18.35

Day 2

Said goodbye for my German bud, he’s going back home.

Headed towards to Ubud. (150k van transfer)

Went out for lunch and found out this nice Balinese home restaurant

only 84k with the beer

Heavy rain started pouring in and didn’t stop until 5pm

I ordered an extra desert

Walked around town a bit

Managed to find a wine bar and tried some local wine. It’s surprisingly good.

This was the local beer – in a wine glass

More alcohol!

Local arrack – coconut based. Strong and good

I was pretty drunk at this point but still managed to get some supply for the night

Australian drink (32k). Not bad

Finally dinner time

I ordered a not-japanese Ramen in a Japanese restaurant. Rule of thumb is don’t attempt international Asian food in other Asian countries (84k)
Cute puppy in the restaurant

Day 3

Free breakfast

The home stay felt very premium but the breakfast was a bit underwhelmed.

After settled in with my next house (Ubud became so popular that it’s hard to find consecutive nights availability), I went out for lunch.

Quite cheap and good beef curry $7.4 with a big beer!
First time I was presented with a chilled beer glass at a budget restaurant!

Decided to chill by a coffee shop a bit. Met a nice Brazilian guy who is working on 4 projects / jobs simultaneously. He bought me a coffee as well and was eager to refer me, too. He’s banking about $5k a month, not bad for Brazil who’s living in Bali.

I walked around town a bit more and found this dinner place who offers Dim Sum

Of course, I ordered chicken feet. The Bakso (soup) meatball is HUGE
Fresh chillies inside too (only $3.56)

Day 4

Breakfast at the guesthouse, spectacular! The sandwich was phenomenal too
Guesthouse view

Then it’s lunch time, Nasik Bebek (Balinese fried duck)

Another 5-star treat!
With a glass of wine and a beer to pair, of course
Look at this beer glass!

All for less than $12!

Took a walk around the rice fields near town.

Got myself a smoothie to detox a bit – $1.99

While heading back town, saw another arrack. Got try! (I didn’t realize how much I was drinking, I should probably slow down a bit). Met a Canadian who owns a textile factory on holidays and considering opening a shop in Bali.

Relaxed a bit at the guesthouse and went out for find this highly rated local dumpling place (I think the owners are not from Bali, not sure their stories. They speak amazing English.)

85k – the chicken broth was amazing. (due to religions, chicken became the default choice for protein. Balinese is Hindu where beef isn’t eaten)

Day 5

Travel day to Kintamani (highlands near the volcanoes)

One last breakfast at the guesthouse

I had the van transfer dropped in town where I could get some food before heading to the guesthouse – which is quite far

Got to try the delicious poo poo coffee! Simply amazing (40k)
Fish was good too 60k (normally it’s around 25k in town)

What happened next was what made me extremely unhappy. The restaurant owners though initially nice and wanted to “help” me to get me to my guesthouse turned out to be another greedy locals who only saw foreigners as $$$

I was initially quoted to get to the guest by van for another 150k which I thought was fair. The wife wanted to charge me 300k on a motorbike ($20US) for a 12km or 25min ride! She knew very well there wasn’t shared ride available, easily.

I waited for about 10mins and ordered a Grab. Lucky for me there was a driver who just dropped a couple nearby. (89k) The guesthouse owner offered to pick me up too. The restaurant wife said she’s do 150k, I said no thanks.

They spent half an hour making me fish where they had to pay for ingredient for 60k, they think somehow they could also act as a Taxi Mafia? Perhaps, stay in poverty for a while with that mentality.

Anyhow, I got to my guesthouse without much trouble (though I did have to hike the last leg for 15min)

Stunning for less $15 a night!
Directly from my guesthouse.
View from my room

Booked a sunrise trip to climb Mt. Batur. (400k) and owner also kind enough to arrange me a motorbike that’s almost brand new.

I went out for dinner / sunset with the Russian mate next to my room where we were going to climb together

$3.87 for a whole lake fish (from the lake in the picture)

The Russian was a non drinker and non smoker to my surprise. Later I found out he’s actually an investment manager who’s starting a company in Bali. This was his business trip.

Hanging out a bit before going to bed early

Day 6

Climbing day!

Definitely busy with all those tourists from Ubud

We had a hot breakfast at the summit.

It’s freezing, unsurprisingly. Sadly, the cloud covered the entire summit and crater, we didn’t quite get to see much.

Our climbing group

Descending!

Me and the Russian

I didn’t take many pictures with the British, he’s far behind for one thing and he’s more or so just acted like every other young Brit I’ve met on this trip – entitled and clueless

Finally the cloud started to clear up a bit

Lava photo

I learned that the guide only earns about 3m RP a month which is about $200. He’s nice and speaks good English and told me climbing is still much better than farming. He didn’t quite finish school (only up to 9th grade or 11th grade?) I tipped him well (100k or $7 US) which he thanked him profusely and even offered me to get me to my next destination on his scooter.

Last picture before concluding

Took a brief nap to catch up with some sleep and decided to go out for lunch. For some reasons, most restaurants were closed.

I managed to find this honest local lady who’s restaurant is attached to her home

28k! I spent two hours to wait for the storm to clear up. Though approaching dry month and the afternoons were consistently wet

The owner came back at night and decided to hang out with us. I said we should do some Arrack, he kindly enough to have his cousin deliver to the guesthouse.

He’s so kind and told us all the legendary stories about his past life including how he started hustling with tourists since he’s 10, how he started driving motorbikes since 8. After all, that’s how he got to own 5 properties today.

Day 7

Even comes with complimentary breakfast and free flow tea/coffee – how lovely

The only downside of the property was all the flies from the farms nearby. It’s a near perfect location.

The owner was kind enough again to take us in town where me and the Scottish girls to get lunch in town.

Amazing meal and drink too. Staff was so kind, too. $12.75
I was a bit hungry, so I ordered another dish.

Owner picked us up and sent us back to our guesthouse.

Had a one last fish at the guesthouse

More stories like how he carried a german tourist body back down when the eruption happened and killed the couple. Needless to say, we all got pretty drunk. It’s a good day.

As I write this, I realized how a single bad apple (the greedy restaurant wife) could ruin the entire lovely Balinese experience. That is Bali is still lovely, but you can’t lower your guard (there were multiple fruit vendors trying to charge me 2-3 times I paid in Java) despite the charms. Would I go back again? Does the perfect place exist?

Expenses

Week 18Currency:INR15
DayFood&DrinkLodgingTransportationOther (tickets/tours etc)
1$30.31$9.89$13.33$3.33
2$25.02$20.27$10.00$0.00
3$13.60$20.60$0.00$0.00
4$21.52$20.60$0.00$0.00
5$10.54$14.36$16.67$0.00
6$9.68$14.36$0.00$26.67
7$17.10$14.36$0.00$0.00
$127.75$114.45$40.00$30.00
TotalGrand Total:$312.20
Spent surprisingly less despite having private rooms and nice meals

1 comment

  1. Fascinating Bali adventures! That is pretty interesting what different cups were used for beer. And, good idea to try the famous poo poo coffee. It’s too bad about the greedy restaurant wife taxi mafia. I figured something like that might occasionally happen 🙁

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